Textile arts in Bangladesh

Textile arts of Bangladesh

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Weaving in Bangladesh

The history of the textile arts of Bangladesh dates back to the 1st century AD. According to the archaeological excavations, Bangladesh was once famous for its artistic textile production throughout the world. Over the years, several types of textiles evolved in the country, mostly by the indigenous handloom manufacturers.

History

Silver-embroidered muslin

The fine, transparent mulmul known as muslin in Europe manufactured by the weavers of Bengal was established as a commercial product almost 2000 years ago. Gangetic muslin is referred to by Greek and Roman writers. It is known from their writing that it was the most favored among the luxury goods imported from India. These were known by beautiful poetic names in Rome such as – nebula which means mist, vapor or cloud, and venti textiles, woven winds. Similar names are still used in Dhaka.

The most important commodities were fine cotton and, later, silk. The East India Company, already well established in Goa began to cast covetous glances at Bengal in the early 16th century. In 1536 they set up trading posts at Satgaon and Chittagong. In the mid – 17th century the East India company of London was permitted by the Mughal government to establish a few factories (trading posts) in Bengal.

The handloom textile industry employs a large section of the population. About 60 to 65 percent of the demand for textiles in Bangladesh is supplied by the handloom industry.

Types

Rajshahi silk

• Muslin: Durgadas Lahiri has mentioned in Bharatbarsher Itihas that in 1462 BC most mummies of Egypt were covered in muslins. George Birdwood describes muslin "comely as curtain of Solomon" that is older than the code of Manu. The meaning of the word muslin is not clearly known.
• Tant: From ancient times only persons from the Tanti caste worked on the loom. Weavers generally came into this profession from the Hindu Tanti or Kayastha castes.
• Khadi or khaddar has a long history in Bangladesh. In the 6th century a local variation of Khadi cloth was described by Huen Tsang of China. Marco Polo described a fabric from the Bengal region, probably khadi muslin, calling it as fine as the spider's web.
• Cotton: Watts and Brown^[who?] mention that the cotton fabric of Bengal was manufactured in many regions, including Burdwan, Birbhum, and Bankura. The muslin of Dhaka was renowned.
• Rajshahi silk: Silks of Bangladesh include tassar silk, muga silk and eri silk.^[
• Mixed fabrics: As Islam forbids the use of pure silk garbs in religious ceremonies the artistic use of many mixed fibers was observed in the subcontinent. Mulberry silk and cotton mixes are called garbhasuti or asmani.
• Jamdani: Loom-figured, diversely ornamented muslin is called jamdani.^[
• Sari, Lungi and other garments: In rural Bangladesh the word sari and kapor mean the same thing. The sari has always been made in the same form. The word dhoti is derived from dhowa ("washing"). The word gamchha is derived from ga mocha (wiping the body). At present the lungi is the most popular wear for men.
• Tangail was known for sari made by the weavers of Bajitpur under the patronage of local zamindars. A central artisan's cooperative society was established in the 1930s to organize the weavers' caste and preserve the Tangail sari tradition.

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Handicraft in Bangladesh

Handicraft in Bangladesh

  Handicraft products from cottage based small manufacturing units. Some handicraft products often have identifying features such as traditional or artistic deriving from the region of production by craftsmen, working generally on a cottage industry basis. The customer-oriented definition of handicrafts suggests that it is the creative expression of a group of people with unique artistic skills who apply their talents to the production of material goods, which reflect their culture and heritage.

Bamboo baskets

The most important industries in Bangladesh in early and medieval times comprised handicrafts and cottage industries. Prominent amongst them were textiles, metal works, jewelry, wood works, cane and bamboo works, and clay and pottery. Later, jute and leather became the major raw materials for handicrafts. The result is a fascinating variety of baskets, pottery, wall hangings, handbags, travel kits, toys, ashtrays, carpets, embroidered quilts, and so on.

These products are characterised by utility, sustainability and environment friendliness blended with aesthetics appeal and are suitable for everyday use. The most predominant features of Bangladeshi handicrafts are the extensive use of individual skill and the interesting design motifs.

Early records show that Gangetic muslin reached even Roman and Greek empires. Chinese and Arab travelers also took note of the fine cotton and silk produced in Bengal. Since the 16th century, fine hand-woven textile as well as superior ivory, silver and metal objects from the Suba of Bengal were prized possessions at the court of the Mughals.

Mughal kings patronised the arts and crafts and commissioned the whole community of artists for making items of decoration for their use and for giving away as gifts.

During the early Mughal period, craftsmanship got patronage of the nobility, who sent presents to the imperial courts in Delhi. Local consumption by rulers and the elite also promoted development of handicrafts. artisans played the most important part in the production of handicrafts and the fact that they worked chiefly for people, had added a unique personal touch to their work.

Handicraft products

Besides contributing to foreign exchange earnings, generating employment, and creating the opportunities to utilise indigenous resources, handicraft plays a vital role in sustaining the rural economy and cultural heritage of the country. Handicrafts created by the works of painters and sculptors, as well as craft workers who have little or no training as artists and create their work for other people rather than museums or wealthy collectors, embody the cultural heritage of the country. Most handicrafts cater to the needs of the common people, although they originate through the patronage of the rich. Over time, they acquire the dignity of a craft. The members of the craftsmen family or cooperatives are employed in the handicraft production unit at the cottage level. The workers (skilled or semiskilled) are paid their wages on a daily basis. The handicraft sector is an important employment provider, especially in the rural areas. In the 1990s, according to a study covering seven countries in Asia, 4 million people worked full-time on craft production, while another 4 million worked part-time.

In export trade of the country, handicrafts are considered non-traditional items with a huge potential for expansion. Being a developing country, Bangladesh faces tough competition in export of finished goods in the manufacturing sector, but' many developed countries, however, give preferential treatment to the import of handicraft from Bangladesh.

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