| Nakshi Kantha | |
|---|---|
| Geographical indication | |
 Traditional nakshi kantha | |
| Alternative names | নকশি কাঁথা |
| Description | A traditional embroidery art of Bangladesh, Eastern India, and Northeastern India |
| Country | Bangladesh and India |
| Material | Cloth, usually cotton |
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Nakshi kantha, a type of embroidered quilt, is a centuries-old Bengali art tradition of the Bengal region, notable in Bangladesh and Indian states of West Bengal, Tripura and part of Assam. The basic material used is thread and old cloth.Nakshi kanthas are made throughout Bangladesh, but the greater Mymensingh, Jamalpur, Bogra, Rajshahi, Faridpur and Jessore areas are most famous for this craft.
The colourful patterns and designs that are embroidered resulted in the name "Nakshi Kantha", which was derived from the Bengali word "naksha", which refers to artistic patterns. The early kanthas had a white background accented with red, blue and black embroidery; later yellow, green, pink and other colours were also included. The running stitch called "kantha stitch" is the main stitch used for the purpose. Traditionally, kantha was produced for the use of the family. Today, after the revival of the nakshi kantha, they are produced commercially.
Etymology
The word kantha has no discernible etymological root. The exact time of origin of the word kantha is not accurately known but it probably had a precursor in kheta (khet Bengali means "field").According to Niaz Zaman, the word kantha originated from the Sanskrit word kontha, which means rags, as kantha is made of rags.
Tradition
Like any other folk art, kantha making is influenced by factors such as materials available, daily needs, climate, geography, and economic factors.Probably the earliest form of kantha was the patchwork kantha, and the kanthas of the decorative appliqué type evolved from this.In literature
The earliest mention of Bengal Kantha is found in the book Sri Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita by Krishnadas Kaviraj, which was written some five hundred years ago. The famous Bengali poet Jasimuddin also had a very famous poem 'Nakshi Kanthar Math' on Nakshi Kantha
Making
Traditionally old sarees, lungis and dhotis were used to make kanthas. Kantha making was not a full-time job. Women in almost every household were expert in the art. Rural women worked at leisure time or during the lazy days of the rainy season, so taking months or even years to finish a kantha was normal. At least five to seven sarees were needed to make a standard-size kantha. Today the old materials are replaced by new cotton cloths. Traditionally the thread was collected from the old sarees. That is rarely done today.
When a kantha is being made, first the sarees are joined together to attain the required size, and then layers are spread out on the ground. The cloths are then smoothed, and no folds or creases are left in between. During the process, the cloth is kept flat on the ground with weights on the edges. Then the four edges are stitched and two or three rows of large running stitches are done to keep the kantha together. At this stage, the kantha can be folded and stitched at leisure time.
Originally, designs and motifs were not drawn on the cloth. The design was first outlined with needle and thread, followed by focal points, and then the filling motifs were done. In a kantha with a predominant central motif the centre was done first, followed by corner designs and the other details. In some types of kanthas (carpet, lik and sujni, etc.) wooden blocks were used to print the outline. The blocks are replaced today by patterns drawn in tracing papers.
Types
The following is how kanthas are categorized, according to the stitch type:
Running stitch
The running stitch kantha is truly the indigenous kantha. They are subdivided into Nakshi (figured) and par tola (patterned). Nakshi (figured) kanthas are further divided into motif or scenic kanthas.
Lohori kantha
The name was derived from Sanskrit, as in "'Soundarya Lahari" or "Shivananda Lahari"- Religious poetic works in Sanskrit by Adi Shankara. It is also found in Persian Language giving the same meaning, 'lehr, which is "wave". This type of kantha is particularly popular in Rajshahi. These kanthas are further divided into soja (straight or simple), Kautar khupi (pigeon coop or triangle), borfi or diamond (charc
Lik or anarasi
The Lik or Anarasi (pineapple) type of kantha is found in the Chapainawabganj and Jessore areas. The variations are lik tan, lik tile, lik jhumka, and lik lohori.
Cross-stitch or carpet
This type of kantha was introduced by the English during the British Rule in India.The stitch used in this kanthas is the cross-stitch.
Sujni kantha
This type of kantha is found only in Rajshahi area. The popular motif used is the undulating floral and vine motif.
Influence of religion and folk belief
Hindu women during 19th century used human and animal forms to tell stories of Gods and Goddesses and their Vahanas. Bengali women were free to draw upon their rich indigenous surroundings as well as their contemporary stories. To them the fabric was the artist and the person was the artisan. Mid 19th century, colour schemes and designs of Nakshi Kantha began to change to make them suitable for use on modern garments. 1930 Kabiguru Rabindra Nath Tagore and his daughter-in-law Pratima Devi trained Santali women in Birbhum District and quality work was produced under the tutelage of 'Kalabhaban' Artists.
Kantha consists of the simplest stitch in the language of embroidery – the running stitch, yet it is making a mark in the National as well as International Market. Nowadays,'Nakshi Kantha' is treated as traditional form of folk art as well as catering to top designers for their haute-couture creations. Nakshi Kantha in Bangladesh – Jessore, Faridpur, Mymensingh and Jamalpur have similar styles when it comes to stitching. These precious works of art remain silent witnesses of past, present and future of Bangladesh.
Stitches
The earliest and most basic stitch found in kanthas is the running stitch. The predominant form of this stitch is called the phor or kantha stitch.The other forms of stitches used are the Chatai or pattern darning, Kaitya or bending stitch, weave running stitch, darning stitch, Jessore stitch (a variation of darning stitch), threaded running stitch, Lik phor or anarasi or ghar hasia (Holbein) stitches. The stitches used in modern-day kantha are the Kasmiri stitch and the arrowhead stitch. Stitches like the herringbone stitch, satin stitch, backstitch and cross-stitch are occasionally used.
Types
Kanthas generally denote quilts used as wrappers; however, all articles made by quilting old cloth may also be referred to by the same generic name. However, depending on the size and purpose, kanthas may be divided into various articles, each with its specific names. The various types of kantha are as follows:[17]
- Quilt (lep in Bengali): A light quilted covering made from the old sarees/dhotis/lungis and sometimes from sheet cloths.
- Large spread (Naksi Kantha in Bengali): An embellished quilt embroidered in traditional motifs and innovative style
- Puja floor spread (Ason in Bengali): Cloth spread for sitting at a place of worship or for an honoured guest.
- Cosmetic wrapper (Arshilota in Bengali): A narrow embroidered wrapper to roll and store away a woman's comb, mirror, eye kohl, vermilion, sandal paste, oil bottle, etc. Often, a tying string is used to bind the wrap, as in later day satchets.
- Wallet (Batwa thoiley in Bengali): Small envelope-shaped bag for keeping money, betel leaves, etc.
- Cover for Quran (ghilaf in Arabic and Bengali): Envelope-shaped bag to cover the Quran.
- Prayer mats (Jainamaz in Bengali): Mats used by Muslims to say prayers.
- Floor spread (Galicha in Bengali): Floor coverings.
- Cloths wrapper (Bostani, guthri in Bengali): A square wrapper for books and other valuables.
- Cover (Dhakni in Bengali): Covering cloths of various shapes and sizes.
- Ceremonial meal spread (Daster khan in Bengali): A spread for eating place, used at meal time.
- Pillow cover (Balisher chapa or oshar in Bengali): A flat single piece pillow cover.
- Handkerchief (Rumal): Small and square in shape.
- Modern-day articles: Today newer uses are found for nakshi kanthas, such as bedspreads, wall hangings, cushion covers, ladies' purses, place mats, jewellery boxes, dress fronts, skirts border, shawls and sharees.
Controversy regarding Geographical Indication
In 2008, the Indian state of West Bengal applied for the Geographical Indication for Nakshi kantha, while Bangladesh was also a strong contender for the same. But due to absence of proper law on Geographical Indication in Bangladesh that time (which was later adopted), Bangladesh could not officially apply for the GI. The registry office had no option but to hand-over the Geographical Indication to West Bengal in 2008.
Bangladesh authority however later passed the "Bangladesh Geographical Indication (Registration and Protection) Act, 2013" in parliament and with other necessary preparations now waiting for the next re-applying time cycle to claim the Geographical Indication for Nakshi kantha to Bangladesh.
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